The inks are 100% water-based and Koroseal poses no risk to the environment.

Kobe has exclusive European dealership over Koroseal (with the exception of UK and IRL).

Examples of the many interior designers who design for Koroseal:
- Anya Larkin
- Evans & Brown
- Sondra Alexander
- Mark Pollack
- Maya Romanoff
- Tracey Reinberg

Base
•    The base has to be flat, fixed, dry, free from grease and dust and be a solid colour.
•    Normal absorbing bases, such as plaster carton and float finish walls should be treated with primer glue: 1 part glue with 5 parts of water and left to dry for 6 hours.
•    Strong absorbing bases, such as plaster, concrete and spray plaster should be impregnated with impregnating agent and left to dry for approximately 6 hours.
•    Wash and/or impregnate whitewash and/or water-colour bases.
•    Wash painted walls with a solution of water and ammoniac and grind or sandpaper the wall so that you get an absorbing surface.
•    Plaster carton, chipboard and furniture board: treat with primer glue or impregnate, depending on the quality.
•    Use acrylic glue for permanent bases, such as metal, synthetic material and paint.
•    Remove old paper and the like.
•    Do not use priming paper.
•    Insulate screw and/or nail holes and fill them with filler.
•    Remove and insulate ballpoint stains, oil and the like.
•    The temperature of the base should not be lower than 12°.

Glue
•    Vinyl-textile glue (polyvinylacetate dispersion –PVA-) for ‘normal’ bases; if necessary dilute with 5% water. (We recommend Henkel-Perfax vinyl-textile glue).
•    Vinyl-textile glue has a non-reaction time of approximately 10 minutes, depending on the temperature and humidity of the air.
•    Acrylic glue (acrylic dispersion) for non-absorbing bases, use undiluted.
•    Stir glue well before use.
•    Apply vinyl-textile glue with a lambskin roller.
•    Apply glue to the base.
•    Apply acrylic glue with a roller with short bristles.
•    Use a square painting brush for ceilings and skirting boards and the like.
•    Vinyl-textile glue is frost-resistant up to approximately -15°.
•    Acrylic glue should be stored in a frost-free storage area.

Processing

Each roll contains general processing instructions and where needed, specific instructions for each pattern. Read these carefully before application. The vinyl wall-covering should be processed from a single production batch in sequence; always begin with the highest roll number! Check the rolls for differences in colour and mistakes. Cut bands approximately 8 cm higher than the wall height in order to overcome the fluctuation of the ceiling and the skirting boards. The bands should be numbered with a graphite pencil.

Follow the instructions for the laminated beam & header in the roll.

Plot a plumb line in such a way that the first band sticks out approximately 10 cm from the corner. Apply glue to the wall with a roller (width of the band minus 10 cm). When using vinyl wallpaper with a textile back always apply glue to the walls with a lambskin roller (not a kit trowel) and use a sufficient amount of glue. Lay the material in the glue along the plumb line (set up approximately 10 cm after the corner that serves as a starting point) and rub it in the direction of the grain with a spatula. If the corner is straight you may continue applying the wall covering across the corner. If the corner is not straight you should cut the fabric in the corner. The fabric should always be applied uninterruptedly in corners that jut out.

After applying glue to the base for the second band, loosen approximately 10 cm of the first band and if necessary apply a thin coat of glue. Apply the second band approximately 5 cm but without glue so that it overlaps with the first band and rub it with a spatula. The excessive, overlapping strips at the ceiling should be slit vertically at approximately 5 cm. Subsequently, cut both bands with a ‘double cutter’. When doing this pull the wallpaper tightly, remove the cut strips and press the joint with a spatula or roller. With some practice you will reach a jointless result. Fabric with a selvedge can also be applied laminated, i.e. one band straight and the next upside down, this allows for less difference in colour. With this sort of wallpaper preferably hang the wallpaper so that it overlaps, because the joints can almost always be seen as a result of the tension on the threads.

After 3-4 bands cut off the excessive fabric from the ceiling and skirting boards with a spatula and cutting knife. Apply the bands and squeeze out the air bubbles with a spatula from top to bottom, be careful not to move too much to the sides in order to avoid stretching. Note: When using too little glue it is difficult to squeeze out the air bubbles.

Remove excessive remainders of glue, wash with clean water and dry.

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